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From my first foray into parachute rigging in 1997, I have just “gotten by” with my sewing machine skills. Local riggers Ben Butler, Perry Thibideau, Eric Johnson and Danny Page were around to show me the basics, but most of it I had to learn from trial and error. So it was no wonder when I focused on sewing machine knowledge as I was going through my master rigger training at the U.S. Academy of Parachute Rigging earlier this year.

I currently own a Singer 20u, Consew 175RB, Singer 211 walking foot and Brother 430 bartacker. I will be adding a Berina ziz-zag machine, Singer harness machine and at least one double-needle binder by the end of the year.

While “Weird Wayne” and Sandy Reid were teaching me the ins and outs of sewing machine operation, I started to really wonder how my machines worked at all back home in the loft. For those of you riggers starting out or those who have never taken the time to get up close and personal with their sewing machine, I’ve put together a few tips to get you started in the right direction.

To ensure a proper setup, threading and timing of each machine, make sure you have read and understand the respective owner’s manual. Each machine is just a tad bit different in threading, needles and parts. I keep a copy of the basic machine threading schematic posted above every machine in the loft so anyone working on the machine can thread it properly.

An easy way to check for proper tension on a sewing machine is to clip two hemostats to the thread just to the left of the thread take up lever. With one hemostat, the tension spring shouldn’t budge, but with two, the spring should move. A similar check can be done with the bobbin. Remove the bobbin holder and clip the hemostat to the thread while holding the bobbin holder. The thread should not move, but with two, it should. Additional tweaking of the tension can be done from this point given the type of material and desired stitch result.

Nicks and burrs can really mess up your material as well as the stitch. Check your needle regularly for a blunted point. The throat plate and hook assembly should also be inspected for nicks and burrs. Emory cloth as well as a Dremel tool can be used to smooth down rough edges on those parts. Broken thread and/or damaged material is usually a sign of a damaged needle, throat plate or hook assembly.

A well-oiled, clean machine is extremely important for smooth operation as well as a longer-life for the sewing machine. Oiling the machine at the end of the day allows the oil to seep and set in for the next day of use. And keeping the machine covered at night keeps dust out of the moving parts.

And finally, one of the best tricks I learned from Sandy Reid at Rigging Innovations was the setup he had for the extra bobbins. Take a piece of pipe insulation and cut a 1” slit down the center to open it up. Attach the pipe insulation to the wall or table. All of the bobbins sit perfectly in the insulation. My bobbins had always been scattered around, but now these holders keep the bobbins in one place and the insulation keeps the bobbins from unwinding or rattling while the machine is in operation. Give it a try.